This is for all the people that are interested in building an Megasquirt for your 1JZ-GTE, specifically the MS2. Now i can't exactly help you with everything, but i can help you with the route i have gone. Now to warn you, this is NO easy task. Also, I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE INCURRED
The Jim Stim Tester took me 4 hours to make
The Zeal Daughter board took less than an hour
The MS2 and modifications took 5-6 nights (about 4 hours each)
If you are willing to learn how an ECU works, want to get in the tuning world, and want a challenge this is definitely for you.
There is A LOT to read all over the internet having gone through 5-8 different websites, and it took me a good 1 month of HARD troubleshooting after building the ECU. So take your time, be patient and if you get pissed like i do, take a break and come back to it later. Or you will be paying for extra parts you burnt up. Here are some good links if you get stuck
Google (Be SPECIFIC in your problem)
Here are my specs:
1993 RX7 1JZGTE
Megasquirt 2 PCB 3.0 with Mapdaddy 4
550 CC USDM Injectors (Wired with 4.7 ohm resistors on power wire more to come with this later)
Zeal Daughterboard to bring in cam sensor VR signal
6 BIP373's running wasted spark (Homemade Ignitor built)
NO IACV (Blocked it off and cracked the throttle for idle)
Stock Coolant Sensor
Stock Manifold Air Temp sensor
Stock crank trigger wheel (VR Sensor 1)
Rear Cam sensor (VR Sensor 2)
Stock TPS Sensor
Jim Stim tester
These are what i bought from diyautotune
MS230-K Megasquirt-II kit with V3.0 PCB
ZealDB1-K Unassembled Zeal Engineering Dual VR Daughterboard
JimStim-K JimStim Stimulator kit
StimPower Power supply for JimStim
MSHarness 8' wiring harness
TuneCable 6' DB9 tuning cable
USB-2920 (Only needed if your laptop doesn’t have a true DB9 port)
Bip373 Drivers for the Coilpacks
T-LeadBend Lead bending tool
ESD Strap Anti-Static ESD Protection Wrist Strap
Also buy these
Soldering Station (Amazon, or your local radioshack)
Isopropyl Alcohol (Rubbing Alcohol)
MS2 PCB 3.0 assembly
or http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2 ... htm#layout
http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_article ... sembly.htm
Jim Stim Assembly
The Jim Stim helps immensely when it comes to troubleshooting your MS2, you just have to learn how to use it. Go to jbperf.com
Also a decent soldering station is a MUST. Might as well invest in something nice since you may also solder several things on your chassis (i.e. Headlight wiring, Switches in interior, etc.) I use a Weller because that's what I'm comfortable with. Follow these tips for soldering:
-Make sure you put the heat shrink on the wire first, if you forget it, how are you going to put the tube back on?
-Put flux on the wires, a little bit is fine because the more you put on the more you will have to clean.
-Put solder on soldering iron and touch the wires (where you put the flux)
-Dip your small brush into the Isopropyl Alcohol and clean ALL the flux off of the solder. You want it to be as shiny as possible
-Put heat shrink tube through the wires and put the lighter to it (Light your lighter first lol)
It is imperative that the flux is cleaned off the wires and ECU otherwise corrosion will occur and can mess with your electrical (nasty gremlins)
Before you start make sure you have everything ready and you are in an open area for the soldering. Solder has tin and Lead in it so you want to be in an open area. Also, ESD or Electrostatic Discharge can damage your small components without you even knowing it, so make sure you have an ESD strap connected to a ground. I did it the backyard engineer way and took a wire and plugged it into the ground in the outlet (JUST THE GROUND OUTLET, I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU SHOCK YOURSELF. GOOGLE TO FIND OUT WHICH ONE IS THE GROUND IN THE OUTLET) then connected my ESD strap to the wire. If this is your first time soldering, watch some videos on youtube first and practice on something else before you try it on the MS2. You don't want to burn up your circuit board or ruin the tracks on it. A general rule is to not leave the soldering iron on the joint for longer than 5 seconds. and wear safety glasses!!! Solder likes to spit sometimes...
So Let's get started
Purchase what i did from http://www.DIYAutotune.com (See above). While you are waiting patiently for those parts to come in, print out the manual (MegaManual) and put it in a binder with sheet protector. That way you don't have to get your computer dirty or get solder on it. While you are waiting, start setting up your computer. Download the most recent firmware for MS2. I have a Macbook pro, i read somewhere that you may need a windows computer to load the firmware onto the MS2, so i did that. If you are unable to load the firmware with your mac, have a windows computer available.
Now when i purchased the Serial port to USB from DIYAutotune, it was not working. The LED was lighting up on it, but for some reason i was not able to connect to the board. I was freaking out, and thought my board was finished. But i ended up opening the Serial port to USB connector with a razor and found the ground from the circuit board of the connector was broken. So i had to solder it back on in order for it to work. So check for this just in case, i may have got a lemon….
Once everything comes in, you should have the knowledge to know how to build it. Follow it step by step exactly! There are some portions where you can make a decision to have certain electrical components on the board or not. So DO NOT install everything because you think you know how to build it. Follow the steps verbatim and by the way, you have VR Sensors. So modify the board as such.
Build the Zeal daughterboard according to the website above, and wire it to the MS2 Board provided the directions
For Injectors i made it in the ODDS/EVENS wiring:
1/3/5 Injectors wired to Bank 1 (2 Injectors on 1 wire, 1 Injector on the other wire)
2/4/6 Injectors wired to Bank 2 (2 Injectors on 1 wire, 1 Injector on the other wire)
Even though my Injectors are Low Impedance, i wired two 25w 4.7 Ohm resistors from Digikey. 1 Resistor for 3 injectors, these are wired to the 12v switch wire of the injectors.
For the Ignitor i tried and tried to make the stock ignitor to work, but read there were a lot of complications with using the stock ignitor and the MS2, so i bought 6 BIP373's running in wasted spark.
I built the Ignitor out of an RX7 FD OEM Ignitor, it was broken so it was useless. But the heatsink on it proved beneficial as the BIP's get HOT. Now the picture says to use 330 Ohm Resistors, but pay attention to the note, It says to use 680 Ohms if you are wiring 2 VB921's (VB921's have been replaced with BIP373's). What i did was use the proto board. I wired two 330 Ohm Resistors to the top of each spark output (R26, R27, R29). So i would get 660 Ohms with each spark output. See the pictures below, i will take a picture of my Proto board when i have the time.
These are my BASE Settings, so it should help you still get started. For easier purposes, download Tunerstudio, and upload the MSQ
TRIGGER WHEEL SETTINGS:
Trigger Wheel Arrangement: Dual Wheel
Trigger Wheel Teeth: 12
Tooth #1 Angle (Deg BTDC): 1.0
Wheel Speed: Crank Wheel
Second Trigger Active on: Rising Edge
and every rotation of: Cam
TACH INPUT/IGNITION SETTINGS:
Spark Mode: Toothed Wheel
Skip Pulses: 2
Ignition Input Capture: Rising Edge
Spark Output: Going High (Inverted)
Number of Coils: Wasted spark
Spark A Output pin: D14
Injector Dead Time: .700
Battery Voltage Correction: .200
PWM Current Limit: 100 (I did this because i have resistors wired in, this setting is normally for high impedance)
Injector PWM Period: 40
Different Bank Setting: Of
I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE IF YOU MESS UP ANYTHING. BEFORE TRYING TO START MAKE SURE YOU CHECK ALL THESE
JOINTS ARE COMPLETELY SOLDERED ON CIRCUIT BOARD
CIRCUIT BOARD CLEANED WITH ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL (MAKE SURE IT DRIES)
MAKE SURE YOU HAVE 12V IN THE APPROPRIATE PLACES AND GROUND IN THE APPROPRIATE PLACES
Now those are just general things to look out for. Let me tell you what happened…..
There was a short in my Coilpack wiring, from a chafed wire to the valve cover. What ended up happening was coilpack 5 had too much current running through it and destroyed it completely. The insides were oozing out of the coilpack. So for more tips
BE METHODICAL IN WHAT YOU DO
BE PATIENT AND DO NOT GIVE UP. YOU ARE HERE NOW, GET A REWARD FROM IT
IF YOU NEED ANY HELP, CHECK OUT THE FORUMS OR PM ME
If I miss anything please let me know and i will edit it
Thanks to all the people that helped me with this build
And if you have the chance, check out my Facebook page