busa dragbike

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stroker
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busa dragbike

Post by stroker » Sun Aug 31, 2008 6:25 pm

now running great to 8000rpm
got to tune it to run 11000rpm
running on a v3ms1 extra with 2 vb's driving stock coils with 029y4 code
4-1 wheel in a cover by F.B.G. with a changed rotor
7 inch m/t
slider clutch by MTC
launch control
nos control
knock sensor
boost control
mitsubishi td04hd-15g turbine on a home made header

boosted2000
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Re: busa dragbike

Post by boosted2000 » Wed Jan 21, 2009 4:58 pm

Nice, I have almost the same thing. 8.42 @163 so far, 1.34 60 ft. w/ a slider and 7 lbs of boost. Once I learn how to tune the slider, it should really go.

What kind of times did you run with it?

The palm pilot is a real help on the bike.

Good luck with your project.

Jeff

stroker
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Re: busa dragbike

Post by stroker » Sat Jan 24, 2009 4:04 pm

didn't run
lc1 is blown and getting fixed as of now!!!
i will be running at 655-660 lbs total weight on a 68-69 inch w.b.

what's your total weight?

boosted2000
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Re: busa dragbike

Post by boosted2000 » Sun Jan 25, 2009 9:36 am

The bike is fairly light, cartire chassis w/ prostock Busa body, probably around 420 lbs, I am around 200.

I am running MS for my fuel only, MSD MC-4 for the ignition.

Couple things I found out the hard way, one is the stock oiling system does not seem to hold up well to the boost. There is an oil mod that some people do that seems to stop the carnage. Make sure that you have put in the oil bypass line (when you remove the oil cooler). My new motor has the crank drilled out and fluted, the oil passages drilled out in the cases and the passage by the filter opened up. Also the high pressure oil relief valve installed. I was running conventional oil, I think that was another factor.

The other think was the stock valves, I broke valve guide, my buddy had the valve come apart (their 2 piece). I put the APE valves with Carpenter springs and bronze guides in the head. Not a ton of money.

Once I get back on the track, the plan is to tune the clutch so it launchs hard and then turn up the boost and run a few sevens. Then I will probably turn it down to bracket race, maybe run 8.50s or 8.60. Might hit a few Prostar races this year and run Top Gas (8.20 index). I really like the top end charge the turbo gives you. :shock:

Good Luck

oregongrinder
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Re: busa dragbike

Post by oregongrinder » Sat Feb 14, 2009 10:17 am

Have you been able to get it rev? Hoping to run MS v3.0 on my 2007 Triumph Daytona 675 powered land speed racer and concerned that it may turn too tight for the MS to handle. Redline is 13,900. :?: Thanks, Oregon Grinder

fastfred
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Re: busa dragbike

Post by fastfred » Thu May 21, 2009 7:23 am

Hello:
I have a message above for help with a Hayabusa engine. Can you give me some information on how you interfaced your megasquirt with the Hayabusa sensors, coils & injectors? I plan to build my own manifold as well, my turbo will have to mount just in front of the engine in my application. Do you use more than 4 injectors? If so, do you stage them in by RPM? Any info. you have will help.
Thanks, Fred

stroker
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Re: busa dragbike

Post by stroker » Tue Jul 14, 2009 8:03 pm

the way to plug it is pretty easy

follow the basic guidelines from the manual

make sure you get some vb921's to drive the coils

i have 2 coils plugged per vb921 and it runs fine with dwell control

as of gas start like everyone with injectors from an s2000,you will be fine till 400hp depends on fuel pressure.


are you sure that you need to bypass the oil cooler

i run a 2inch pan with swivell pick'up and blocked the cooler lines but removed the restrictive part behind the filter
and got a high volume gear from shnitz racing,it has -3 teeth so it turns faster.
i tried the high pressure regulator but it was too much for the turbo. volvo runs 40psi of oil pressure ,suzuki 72psi,and with regulator 125psi so it was letting oil out through the bushings on each side

stroker
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Re: busa dragbike

Post by stroker » Tue Jul 14, 2009 8:13 pm

now revving past 11000rpm
with a vr sensor
but heard from efi4tuning.com
(great, best,support by the way) that a hall sensor is faster
but for now my vr at 54 mil gap is good enough with only 20 inches if wire so 14000 is not a problem

i plan on getting there with a balanced crank with rod's in the future

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