Can you comment on your BOV (unless I'm wrong looks to be piston style on right hand side just before your throttle body?) I'm adding one this winter and figured on utilizing a similar type with external "trumpet". Where's yours from if I might ask?
I concur with your mention of pre-ignition potential when rolling back onto throttle suddenly, I've been working around that the last couple of years on my boxer, plus a strategy to ensure things don't go badly if my water injection system should become inoperative (so helpful in nipping things back into calm behaviour).
Do you utilize wasted spark? I have posted some significant challenges I had utilizing wasted spark and having cross firing on opposite stroke from power when under boost and depending on timing settings. My valve overlap is pretty broad. Now that I've added a cam sensor and upgraded to Sequential Ignition, I note a terrific improvement in engine behaviour and power.
Did I read correctly that you utilize your kick start when starting? Does the engine require a complete rev to sync? I have a kick start on my gear box but have never attempted to use it since MS added.
I found my BOV in a local advertisment, (Since the guy were tuning his volvo i suspect it to be from the KGtrimning-firm as below (KG is an old tuning company for volvo cars).
I tried a chaepo one from our local "Biltema" store, guaranteed to be a china copy, and that didn´t work, after that I bought this one.
It has no name on it but is of good fabrication, might still be some copy...
It is a piston type, sealed with two O-rings (green maybe viton or likevise), the piston moves easy and can bee seen working when at stand still and reving the engine.
Here is one similar. http://www.gikturbo.se/performance/avla ... il-mp.html or from another swedish supplier http://www.kgtrimning.com/dumpvalve.htm (sorry for only sweedish language)
About ignition and kickstart.
I use wasted spark, for simplicity resons. I hear you and maybe i´ll try singlefire in the future.
I use one trigger for each ignition event and use trigger return for spark under crank, the bike ignites when only trying to find compression to kick start.
Same behavior as with any other ignition tried, boyer, lucas or points (kettering) ignition. There is no need for synk, as for now.
The drawback are of course less presicion when it comes to igniting point in degrees btdc when running the motor.
As for the Megasquirt items on my bike they are still flawless.
Could not say so for the Engine, it cracked the crankcases in the authumn 2014 and it has taken me some 1,5 yrs to put the engine back in shape again.
The rebuild including new crankcase, pistons, valves, valveguides, chamshafts, bearings and more.
I did just lift the Megasquirt items aside, and reinstalled them, charged the battery and the starting process Went something like this:
Sorry for the little serious face of mine, I'm actually happy...
The Engine ran a bit on the lean side at first, therefore it lives on the acc enrichment in the video, that's now adjusted.
And, Yes Jsantoro i use the trigger signal for both ign. and fuel.
Ola Wendelin, Eskilstuna
Any read on how and why the case broke? Is the higher output of forced induction a factor, or other?
I've done some "horrible" things to my engine during the time leading to now, when bad settings and just wrong ignition equipment was beating it up pretty significantly - but the boxer design seems to have a good overabundance of extra strength where it was made to handle much more power than the stock set up actually had.
Hope she lives a happy and long life for you.
I am sure the BMW setup is far stronger than mine..
If you can read Swedish, you can find some joy in this tread.
As for the reason it broke, it can be anything but do have some bearing from my more than double the designed powerlevel!
Mostly I Think it is my own doings when I took material away from the original cases when putting in bigger main bearings.
The new crankcase has more original material left around the mainbearings.
I just completed refurbing a lathe and milling machine that I had in deep storage for many years - really dumb having done the bulk of my project taking short cuts & using hand tools when those machines were quietly calling me from the distance - "Use Me" .
Good luck and hope she performs to your expectations!
In edit, I had to go back and study your photos a bit more (I think I'm learning Swedish )
A perhaps lame question based on the significant modifications performed - but is that a copper head gasket you've fashioned for the new cylinder set up?
I have thoughts towards revamping the stock BMW head gaskets, which are traditional metal fire bead formed about the composite body of material.
I Made simple autocad polylines in a dxf-file.
And If you look again I Reinforce their outside by small metalpins sunk in head and cylinder, to stop a tendency to creep out when on boost. As we agree the triumph is on its edge in many places. The head runs warm and I barely keep the head from reform itself from the heat and tension.
As it runs now Its tight all between services.
The language of pictures are universal.
I'm doing EFI on a stock Bonneville. Can you share your config files fro Tuner Studio? I'm using the same latching sensor for ign and inj.