1976 Datsun 180B (610) L18 1889cc

Nissan, Infiniti, Datsun
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1976 Datsun 180B (610) L18 1889cc

Post by rally180b » Mon Feb 09, 2009 1:57 am

After a long battle its finally running:

Running MS V2 + Relay Board.

L18 Engine:
* Bored to 1889cc
* Standard Camshaft
* 10:1 Compression ratio. Modified L20 pistons.
* Ported head
* Headers + straight through exhaust.
* Running 98 RON fuel
* Webber big bore manifold. Ported & Port Matched, machined for injector bungs.
* Custom made fuel rail, mounted to webber manifold.
* 308cc injectors.
* Sard FPR
* Bosch 044 fuel pump
* Im using modified 40mm mikuni solex DCOE carbies as throttle bodies.

Problems i had:
* Sensors - Temp sensor wasnt reading as expected. Was reading -40 degrees C. Did some experiments to measure resistance/temp. Used EasyTherm to burn values to the MS.
* Sensor Return Grounding - Using the relay board and forgot to ground Pin19 i think it was.
* Sharing Sensors - I had been splicing into sensor wiring which i had used for VDO guages. This obviously causes incorrect sensor readings.
* Not Having Running Engine When Starting - I had taken the carbies off a long time before i started to work on the EFI. I had also removed the dizzy and a few other things. So it took ages to manually check the timing and so forth prior to starting it.
* Fuel Lines - Trying to decide where to put fuel lines. They should run driver side along side factory to avoid heat from headers/exhaust. I have a 1L+ surge tank and lift pump but not sure i will use it as its alot more fuel lines and stuffing around for little benefit.
* Standard Fuel Tank - The standard fuel tank supplies fuel to the carbs via a 6mm barbed fitting. There is no fitting on the tank other than the filler overflow to route fuel back into the fuel tank. This is one of the reasons i was going to use a surge tank. Im still undecided what to do here.
* Brake Booster - I still dont know how im going to charge up the brake booster. I will worry about this later.
* Throttle Bodies - Im using modified solex carbies and my TPS is located on the joint where the throttle rod comes through the firewall and joins a linkage arm. This is just problematic. Sometimes its better to just spend the bux and buy proper efi quad throttle blocks with TPS adapter, return springs, and cabling brackets.

* You dont really need a TPS connected to start the engine. You can fudge it by fixing the voltages.
* Make sure the values the MS is reading from your sensors make sense before even bothering trying to start the engine.
* You dont need an Idle control valve for the engine to run.
* When starting it for the first time it might help to open the throttle a little bit.
* Always power up the fuel pump and pressurise the fuel lines and check for leaks prior to starting the engine for the first time. Check the fuel pressure while your at it.
* Once it starts, sync the throttle bodies if you have them, check the timing and set the idle and play with the VE maps.

I might post the MSQ file i used to start the engine if someone asks for it.

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