I own a 240Z and one day a friend basically gave me a very used 1983 L28ET engine core. Everyone said that the turbo swap was easy (that it was just a drop in replacement) and use Megasquirt (since it's easy to configure) and use EDIS (since it's easy to control and reliable). It seemed like a no-brainer to go the "easy" route and just drop in a better engine and wire up better electronics. How hard could it be?
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
Notes
You have to control BOTH fuel and spark on the turbo engine with an ECU. If you keep the Nissan turbo dizzy just be aware that the turbo dizzy has no internal spark advance/retard mechanisms in it at all. All the 82-83 turbo dizzy has inside is an Hall optical crank angle sensor and a rotor. If you decide to scrap the dizzy for EDIS, then EDIS also sends out a Hall(square wave) signal from the EDIS module to MegaSquirt. Even though EDIS uses a VR sensor, the EDIS module itself converts that into a "hall type" signal (PIP) on Pin EDIS #1 to send out to Megasquirt's Pin 24. Set up MS for a Hall input, not VR.
Megaquirt Parts:
DIYAutoTune MS II V3.57
DIYAutoTune 12' direct wiring harness
DIYAutoTune pre-built "Stim" card
DIYAutoTune GM water and air temp sensors
Engine Parts:
1983 280ZXT engine (F54 L28ET lower end rebuilt by me, with P90a hydraulic head rebuilt by a shop)
T3 Turbocharger (rebuilt by turbochargers.com)
1975 280Z early EFI intake manifold (very clean and simple, no EGR, no webbing)
Stock 265cc Nissan "turbo" injectors (rebuilt ones from "Mr. Injector" on eBay)
Nissan fuel pressure regulator (new, genuine Nissan)
Fuel Rail (made by me from aluminum extrusion, fittings, and pressure gauge from Jegs.com)
280Z injector resistor pack (so no need to control injector current with MegaSquirt modulation)
Ford EDIS-6 ignition and coil pack (so no need to control coil dwell, used from Camano Island, WA on eBay)
Nissan early 2 row harmonic balancer with "bolt on" 3rd pulley (required to adapt on a 36-1 wheel).
240sx TPS sensor (with mounting plate cut from old 280Z throttle switch, BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1580490)
Narrow band (heated) O2 sensor, Bosch 13030 (AutoZone)
Electric radiator fan (due to clearance problems with a 1983 clutched fan, Flex-a-lite low profile)
Silicon hose adapters and tubing (for cold air ducting down to turbo inlet from ExtremePSI.com)
4 Diodes to the 3 coil pack leads to drive Tach (3 1N4004DICD-ND and 1 1N4746ADICT-ND from Digi-Key)
160F thermostat (new, genuine Nissan)
Car Parts:
280Z tachometer
1975 280Z EFI gas tank (has internal baffling so no need for a surge tank)
Walbro GSL392 High Pressure Electric Fuel Pump (DIYautotune.com)
New larger fuel line and new fuel return line
New exhaust system to mate with new downpipe and then replaced all the way back (Meineke muffler shop)
New underhood fuse block for all new +12V lines driven by a 60 amp relay from "key on 12V"
5 speed ZX transmission swap(not technically required) and new 240mm "turbo/2+2" clutch disc(required)
Summary:
It starts and runs fine. I had to learn more about engine controls, custom fabrication, and tuning on this project than anyone can imagine. If I had to do it all over again on a 240Z, I'd just throw in a regular L28 with carbs and a stock ZX dizzy and just enjoy a reliable cheap power increase(and leave the entire rest of the car alone). There is a huge sense of accomplishment but it's impossible to justify the money and time spent. Best of luck for those that start such a turbo/EFI/Ignition conversion project on a 240Z.