Vehicle: 1992 NA6CE Miata
Engine: 1.7L, 11:1 compression, Headwork, Intake/Exhaust
Injection: Port, alternating, 1994 1.8L 230cc injectors.
Description: V2.2 board with MSnS-E 29h firmware, running only fuel for the moment. AEM Wideband.
Well I am finally here!
The install was a bit of a PITA for me. My engine had only 300 miles of brake-in before the install, so I knew everything was working.
I need to state that I am a wrench turning monkey, not an electronics specialist.
I purchased my MS from DIYautotune with MSnS-e loaded (And I got to learn how load firmware myself thanks to a goof up in Easytherm) I bribed my best friend to do some soldering for my old AC equipment. he built the DB37 harness and gave me an old Pentium 1 laptop.
I installed a throttle body from a automatic Miata, because it is a true variable voltage TPS, and not just a on/off TPS like on the 5 speed.
The stock ECU is controlling spark and idle. I have the AFM hooked up so the ECU does not freak out, but I believe it is causing some hesitation (like it does in a stock car)
I did the DSM board mod to get a input form the CAS.
That is it about it for now. I am just tuning the fuel, and gearing up for a spark setup.
I really have to give my thanks to Aussie Driver, his .MSQ helped me to iron out the problems with my initial program.
If you want to run spark and fuel on a Miata I have to recommend a V3 board. There are some V2.2 instructions out there (the DSM instructions were the most helpful, and the MSnS-E main page)
Once you get the board mods done, cut the wires going out from the stock ECU (brown) and connect them to your coil A and B outputs from the MS. This will send everything to the stock 1.6 igniter, and then the coils.
If you have a 1.8, then get some 1.6 coils and two VB921s. The 1.8 coils have internal igniters and are very prone to blowing up (a few people on Miata.net have had this problem)
I am using Steve and Nateâ€™s "FM turbo" map. It is good enough to not knock on a high compression engine, but needs some tuning.
If you are having trouble with easytherm, check R7 and R4. If the resistance is less than 2400 then change it when you are writing your .s19
Here are the values I stole from Al:
-4F = 16200
68F = 2450
176F = 320
Bias resistor = 1814 (note this MS was purchased from DIYautotune)
I am using the Suzuki injectors in the stock location. The fuel rails are made out of 6061, it is a dual feed setup using -6AN line from the tank to the return lines coming out of the Aeromotive A1000-6 regulator.
I am still working on the manifold, the runners will only be about 2 inches.
My vacuum log will be 30cc.
And my velocity stacks are spares from the Webber box at work.
I will post more pix as it all comes together...
P.S. I have a almost perfect tune right now with my single throttle body and stock manifold. I am still amazed how well my car is running on MS.
If anyone has a 1.6 setup similer to mine let me know and I will send you my .MSQ.
I am using 2004 Suzuki GXS-R 600 throttle bodies with the Suzuki 240cc high impedance injectors. Weber 40 air horns. Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator. I have machined out a dual feed fuel rail, vacuum log, and welded together a shorty manifold.
Tuning has proved to be... interesting. Tuning ITBs is very different from tuning a single TB setup.
I fly cut my manifold today chasing a vacuum leak. I will post pictures and VE maps later...
(do a search for any of my posts in the Naturally Aspirated forum on Miata.net for extra info and pix)