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Posted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 11:33 am
Next time I run the motor, I'm going to pull the coils/plugwires from motor, test to see if they're the source of noise/resets.
Here are the datalogs from yesterday. Anytime the TPS goes to 100% for a second or so, that means the engine just died and I did that before restarting it. Just as a visual reference in the logs.
It appears the resets don't actually show up in the log, more like it just stops logging and then starts again after its back on. A hiccup in the log if you will.
Posted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 3:43 pm
I don't want to pop open the champagne too soon, but I think we finally diagnosed the reset problem. I pulled the ignition system including the coils completely off the motor and it cranked and cranked without a single reset (always reset during cranking before).
Now I have to figure out how to get it running, either by shielding the stock system, or just jumping right into spark control with my own shielded system. I have full intention of moving to spark control very soon, but I wanted to try and get some kind of fuel tuning established before adding spark tuning to the mix.
Any suggestions for DIY shielding? I'm thinking I'll just coil some wire around the plug wires? Ground the shielding or not?
Time to do some 'sperimentin.
Posted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 5:11 pm
Woo hoo! I was hoping that pulling those big transmitters off the motor would help. Since you've got the trigger wheel there, you might as well go straight to real ignition, ditch that mag altogether...
Posted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 7:00 pm
True Eric. If anything I could just use a very basic timing map until I had the fuel tuned in. The stock ignition is locked solid at a specific advance, I believe somewhere between 20-30 degrees BTDC.
I was looking at the '90 Kawasaki EX250F coils I bought off ebay
, and started wondering if they were shielded or not. I'm thinking VTwin bikes in '90 might still have been carbed, so they might not have good wires either! I guess I can play it safe and try to hang the CBR COPs off it instead.
Stupid question alert: which terminal is positive on these coils (if they're even polarized)? I'd like to assume blue=positive, black=ground but I'm not sure.
eBay ads NOT allowed on these forums/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 4594113417
Also, I've been contacted via email by a guy in Sweden that's megasquirting an already turboed version of this same engine. He also had nasty noise out of the "lawn mower" ignition and has been running waste-spark COP without issue. Pretty sweet project, I'm going to try and get him to post it up here.
Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2006 6:33 pm
Hurry up man! I want to see some dyno numbers! (and besides, time's running out)
Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2006 9:04 pm
Ran on fuel and spark yesterday...
Feels like it won't be much further before its running like a champ. I hope so, like you said, time is definitely running out.
Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 6:58 pm
Ok, ran like a champ. Mostly. 97.327%
Swapped the polarity on the coils (+12V to the black terminals on those coils above) and the resets drop from almost constant to once a minute.
Here are two massive logs of it running. First two "runs" since we added spark control, and much better than it ever was on fuel-only.
I'll post a vid of it throwing flames later tonight. Its a tad rich on deccel.
Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 8:28 pm
Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2006 8:01 pm
Note to self: check for "resistor" spark plugs as soon as someone suggests that could be your reset problem. It is. The code on the plug must include an "R" somewhere (at least on NGKs).
Engine runs like more of a dream than it ever did. Obviously it needs to be tuned, but it reset only twice in the span of about an hour, held a rock solid idle and just sounded great.
Megasquirt rocks. I'm pumped up again.