Ben Slagle, 1992 Dodge / Mitsubishi Ram 50
Re: Ben Slagle, 1992 Dodge / Mitsubishi Ram 50
(EDIT) I've also found out a 1994 Mitsubishi Montero 3.0L alternator will JUST fit the truck 4G64 if you change the pulley on the alternator. However, the stock puny little 45 amp alternator wiring can't handle a 75 amp alternator and big electric fan, so I had to replace it. It's really easy to change the alternator wiring, just take the nut off the alternator and the bolt out of the fuse box on the battery (Has removable covers on both sides that hide the bolts. I wondered why I couldn't get the fuses out... )
Re: Ben Slagle, 1992 Dodge / Mitsubishi Ram 50
I just started the engine with the turbo connected for the first time about half an hour ago! No boost yet, since I'm just testing things right now. I've got the wastegate locked open. It's amazing how many leaks in a 12 gauge fabricated steel manifold stand up to air pressure, but when you get it hot, the quality of the welds and the metal become apparent. I'll probably end up getting a 220V cord and plug for my 110/220 welder and make a better manifold, this one is just a test. The nice part is, nothing else leaks.
On another note, I looked at my Chinese oil pressure gauge at idle and it was showing 60-70 PSI, going up to 80 at part throttle. I suspect the gauge, since there are no strange noises, or it could be the fact that the engine was cold and I run 20W50 in the summer.
Now I'm getting ready to take the manifold and the turbo back off the truck and fix the leaks.
Re: Ben Slagle, 1992 Dodge / Mitsubishi Ram 50
I have noticed a large increase in power with the turbo working, even though my homemade exhaust manifold keeps getting small leaks. (One of which burnt the alternator... oops...) After I started tuning with the wideband, it really got smooth too. It's a little slow from 800-2000 RPM but at 2000 it starts picking up boost and really takes off up to about 5500. (Ever watch a VTEC Honda take off? Kinda like that but at 2000 RPM instead of 5000.) Also, the big Buick radiator I've got in there works great. It just barely fits, there's about 1/4 inch clearance on each end, but it works. The temperature stays at 180 and the only time the electric fan ever comes on is when I'm going under 20 MPH for over 3 minutes or up a steep hill over 70 MPH running boost.
Re: Ben Slagle, 1992 Dodge / Mitsubishi Ram 50
I have also switched to a 1998 Dodge Neon alternator with a VR706 regulator. It bolts right up. Thanks to the large number of Neons in circulation and in the yards, I shouldn't have any trouble finding an alternator if this one fails, and the regulator is $15 at AutoZone. It's really simple to install the external regulator. Just bolt the regulator to a grounded surface, run a wire from the positive terminal to a switched 12V source that's on in the Run position, run a wire from the field terminal of the regulator to one of the field leads of the alternator, and ground the other field lead from the alternator. (They don't appear to be polarity sensitive.) There you go, one Neon alternator that's readily available.
Since I actually got it running at the beginning of summer this time instead of the end, maybe I'll get to work all the bugs out and drive it for a change.
Re: Ben Slagle, 1992 Dodge / Mitsubishi Ram 50
Now the good news: I've decided to put in something that's easier to get parts for. I have a Chevy 250 straight six and a 5 speed that bolts up to it. I'm pretty sure the radiator will be under the bed for this one. I've done all the measurements, and other than some light sledgehammer action on the firewall, it's going to fit. I've got a throttle body injection unit that will work with a cheap adapter to start, then I'll be working on fabricating a multi port injection setup.
In other news, I still have the turbo I bought from a Ford 6.0l Powerstroke. I'm looking for the oil control valve/solenoid/doohickey so I can have a big turbo on my new engine.